– Dr Abdul Ahad’s Book Resurrects Doomed Cultural Past –
A review by Shireen Naman
Imagine a textile so coveted that it drove the queen to distraction, fascinated emperors, and then imagine a world thousands of miles away from the European courts, where men paradoxically living among an earthly paradise toiled night and day, ever increasing demand of this precious fabric, only to find themselves trapped in a life of poverty and servitude. Such is the fascinating story of one of the finest, but hitherto underrated textiles of the world.
Finding myself again bewildered in front of my bookcase, I judged the book by its cover and my choice fetched me Dr Abdul Ahad’s “Shawls and Shawlbaffs of Kashmir”, winning the phrase over. I read the most special, the very first page of the book which stated my favorite discourse, though beyond my comprehension:
“Ummatey barr ummatey deegar charrad
Danna ein mei karad, aan haasil burrad
Az zae’iefaan naan raboodan hikmat ast
Az tanei shaan jaan raboodan hikmat ast
Shaivaye tehzeebi naw Aadam darriest
Pardabye Aadam Darri souda garriest”
(Allama Iqbal: “One group of people devours what the other grows with hard labour. One sows the seed; the other reaps the benefit. Social convention is that the bread be lifted from the hand of the weaker, and his soul rent from his body. Exploitation of one’s fellowmen is the order of the day, and it is completely obscured by a huge veil of commerce and trade.”)
Nestled in the historical pit dwellings of Burzahom, the Author starts his journey from the coronary heart of Srinagar. The times when Kashmiri drapes emerged as a simple human need—a defense against the biting cold of the Himalayan winters. But necessity quickly gave birth to creativity. The drape evolved, its material becoming a canvas for intricate designs, subtle embroidery, and shiny hues.
Dr. Ahad’s writing is a travel down the memory lane, the times when wool and silk was intertwined. The shawl evolved from being merely practical to a work of art, reflecting the resilience of a community that transformed a simple garment into something extraordinary. The shawlbaffs, the unsung heroes, form the major theme of the book, who infuse each shawl with life. Dr. Ahad focuses on the remarkable talent of the golden hands as they work tirelessly at the loom. These artisans, often overlooked in history, hold the key to connecting generations. Their attention to detail is remarkable. Every motif explained speaks volumes about the rich past of the valley. The loom acts as a bridge between the present and centuries gone by – the shawlbaffs blend wool and aspirations, weaving tales of love, loss, and yearning.
In the book, Dr. Ahad’s findings reveal substantial annual earnings of around 5000 crores. However, these numbers represent more than just financial figures; they symbolize families, aspirations, and survival. In the narrow streets of Srinagar, a weaver’s home serves as both a residence and a workplace. Children grow up surrounded by yarn, imbibing tradition with every passing moment. The labor of the shawlbaffs is not just about creating fabric; it’s about ensuring sustenance. Their hands work tirelessly, shaping not only shawls but also futures. The economic ripple effect extends beyond, supporting other professions, nurturing local markets, and strengthening the social fabric of the community.
Dr. Ahad has also delved into the socio-political complexities with courage. From labor disputes to protests and strikes, the shawl industry reflects broader struggles for justice and equality. The book further amplifies popular unease by navigating the complexity of Kashmir’s troubled heritage and acting as a rebellious beacon. It highlights the effects of erratic leadership, which trap Kashmir in an unending circle of suffering and unbearable hardship.
Dr Abdul Ahad’s “Shawls and Shawlbaffs of Kashmir” provides a remarkable voyage into the myth of Kashmir Shawl, a story of tenacity, identity, as well as unspoken goals.
